We have spent the past 12 days with friends from Cape Town. It has been wonderful.
We all met at TPC (20 km south of Moshi) on the Saturday and relaxed by the pool. On Sunday, Fred took us all for a walk in TPC’s forest to look for an elephant that had been spotted there the day before. While we were following his tracks along the path, we bumped into a group of men armed with machetes, spears, bows and arrows, looking very angry. Apparently, some Masai’s had stolen cattle from them, and they were out to find and punish them. Eventually we found the elephant, but we didn’t linger around too long as he wasn’t particularly happy to see us! We enjoyed cold beer and a braai, with Kilimanjaro as a backdrop.
Caro, Zia, Steve, Bruno and Fred following the elephant’s tracks
Steve with Kili in the background
On monday we got ready for our safari:
Packing for our safari (journey) in front of Fred and Caro’s house
We had decided to spend 3 days in the famous Ngorongoro and Serengeti National Parks. We couldn’t afford more as they are very expensive: 50 USD/day each for the entrance fees + 30 USD/night each for the campsites + 200 USD/car to go into the crater. And in any case,Fred (who was working during the week) was waiting for us to go and spend a long weekend in a private reserve west of Kilimanjaro: Ndarakwai.
The parks were very dry. The annual rains were late. This was actually a blessing as it made the driving easier. We saw lots of animals: elephants and hyenas, some of them at night in the campsites; buffalos, elands, impalas, cheetahs, lions, hartebeests, warthogs, hippos, and lots of migrating zebras and wildebeests (gnus)! We also saw many birds, big and small: marabou storks, goshawks, eagles, superb starling, and many others of which I have forgotten the names! We were too busy admiring them all to take pictures, so here are a few images of animals (with a special thought for Pati’s imaginary menagerie :))
An elephant near Nyani (baboon) campsite
A marabou stork at Simba (lion) campsite
Lizards in the Serengeti
The first sight of the Ngorongoro crater is really awesome. It really is a very special part of the world. It was interesting to learn that colonial farmers were asked to leave the crater in the early 20th century, and the Masai’s signed away their right to live there in the late 1950’s or early 1960’s. It was then turned into a Natural Conservancy and later a World Heritage Site.
View over the Ngorongoro crater
We camped on the crater’s rim, in the only public campsite. There are many other places to stay, but they are all either expensive lodges or private campsites. The atmosphere at Simba camp was peaceful and friendly. There was even toilet paper in the flushing loos (unlike the next day in the Serengeti); and hot water for the showers, which we really appreciated as it was freezing cold that evening: the crater rim culminates at 2500m.
3 pics at Simba camp on the Ngorongoro’s crater’s rim
Many Masais still live on the crater’s rim and along its slopes. We saw them the next day. They still follow a traditional lifestyle: they wear thin red or purple blankets, delicate beaded jewellery, and their cattle and goats (over)graze freely. Along the tourist route, many also try and make a living by selling jewellery or posing for photos.
Masais and cattle: between tradition and modernity
We all met at TPC (20 km south of Moshi) on the Saturday and relaxed by the pool. On Sunday, Fred took us all for a walk in TPC’s forest to look for an elephant that had been spotted there the day before. While we were following his tracks along the path, we bumped into a group of men armed with machetes, spears, bows and arrows, looking very angry. Apparently, some Masai’s had stolen cattle from them, and they were out to find and punish them. Eventually we found the elephant, but we didn’t linger around too long as he wasn’t particularly happy to see us! We enjoyed cold beer and a braai, with Kilimanjaro as a backdrop.
Caro, Zia, Steve, Bruno and Fred following the elephant’s tracks Unhappy elephant
Steve with Kili in the backgroundOn monday we got ready for our safari:
Packing for our safari (journey) in front of Fred and Caro’s houseWe had decided to spend 3 days in the famous Ngorongoro and Serengeti National Parks. We couldn’t afford more as they are very expensive: 50 USD/day each for the entrance fees + 30 USD/night each for the campsites + 200 USD/car to go into the crater. And in any case,Fred (who was working during the week) was waiting for us to go and spend a long weekend in a private reserve west of Kilimanjaro: Ndarakwai.
The parks were very dry. The annual rains were late. This was actually a blessing as it made the driving easier. We saw lots of animals: elephants and hyenas, some of them at night in the campsites; buffalos, elands, impalas, cheetahs, lions, hartebeests, warthogs, hippos, and lots of migrating zebras and wildebeests (gnus)! We also saw many birds, big and small: marabou storks, goshawks, eagles, superb starling, and many others of which I have forgotten the names! We were too busy admiring them all to take pictures, so here are a few images of animals (with a special thought for Pati’s imaginary menagerie :))
An elephant near Nyani (baboon) campsite A marabou stork at Simba (lion) campsite Lizards in the Serengeti
The first sight of the Ngorongoro crater is really awesome. It really is a very special part of the world. It was interesting to learn that colonial farmers were asked to leave the crater in the early 20th century, and the Masai’s signed away their right to live there in the late 1950’s or early 1960’s. It was then turned into a Natural Conservancy and later a World Heritage Site.
View over the Ngorongoro craterWe camped on the crater’s rim, in the only public campsite. There are many other places to stay, but they are all either expensive lodges or private campsites. The atmosphere at Simba camp was peaceful and friendly. There was even toilet paper in the flushing loos (unlike the next day in the Serengeti); and hot water for the showers, which we really appreciated as it was freezing cold that evening: the crater rim culminates at 2500m.
3 pics at Simba camp on the Ngorongoro’s crater’s rimMany Masais still live on the crater’s rim and along its slopes. We saw them the next day. They still follow a traditional lifestyle: they wear thin red or purple blankets, delicate beaded jewellery, and their cattle and goats (over)graze freely. Along the tourist route, many also try and make a living by selling jewellery or posing for photos.
Masais and cattle: between tradition and modernity
Masai man chatting to Bruno and Zia
Later that day, we took a less-travelled road and got lost. We ended up having to ask our way at a Masai village. Three young warriors quietly guided/herded us back on the right track. It was a strange and entertaining interaction.
On Ngorongoro’s slopes
That night we camped at Nyani public campsite in Seronera. Wednesday was spent in the Serengeti’s plains, of which I have too few pictures, but which others have photographed and filmed a hundred times better than we could ever do anyways.
A few images from the Serengeti:
Later that day, we took a less-travelled road and got lost. We ended up having to ask our way at a Masai village. Three young warriors quietly guided/herded us back on the right track. It was a strange and entertaining interaction.
On Ngorongoro’s slopes
That night we camped at Nyani public campsite in Seronera. Wednesday was spent in the Serengeti’s plains, of which I have too few pictures, but which others have photographed and filmed a hundred times better than we could ever do anyways.
A few images from the Serengeti:
After a last night back at Simba camp we drove back to Moshi. The next day we were off to Ndarakwai, a private reserve on the Western side of Kilimanjaro, close to the Kenyan border. It was a really beautiful place, and we enjoyed a secluded bush camp, away from the tourists’ route.
Tent and Zebra towel in the bush
We relaxed, went for a game walk with an armed “askari” (guard), and later for a drive. We admired Mount Meru in the distance, and erceted Scarlet’s awning to protect us from a refreshing rain. We cooked a potjies on the campfire, and staged the Kilimanjaro petanque tournament!
Tent and Zebra towel in the bush
We relaxed, went for a game walk with an armed “askari” (guard), and later for a drive. We admired Mount Meru in the distance, and erceted Scarlet’s awning to protect us from a refreshing rain. We cooked a potjies on the campfire, and staged the Kilimanjaro petanque tournament!
Thanks to Bruno and Zia for allowing us to gate crash their honeymoon. And thanks to Fred and Caro for hosting us so generously in their house on the sugarcane plantation (TPC) for longer than expected! It has been great sharing the past few days’ experiences with you in such a relaxing environment.
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Ayyyyy ayyy ay Caro, que me pongo a llorar! :) Thanks for mentioning my name, for our surprise, specially mine, my little zoo still lives in my dreams, and there are still hillarious stories regarding hippo and the rest of the family. Í cant be happier reading your words and checking that Tanzania is as beautiful as ever, and that you are having a great time. I definitely want to go back and show it to Sönke and Theo! 5 long months spent there... Finally we can see the pictures!! let´s see if we are lucky for the rest of the countries. I envy you, in a goodway. I send you big kisses and hugs from here, everything in order, looking forward to have my trial and have one thing less in my head. Enjoy my family, an take special care of hippo, although a bit "tonto" is supposed to be the best friend from Theo ;)
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