The Source of the White Nile

Jinja, where the White Nile leaves Lake Victoria, was to be our first stop in Uganda. It sells itself as the “Adventure Capital of Africa” and apart from offering probably the best commercial white water rafting in the world, it also offers: quad biking, bungee jumping, horse riding and kayaking. But, we didn’t do any of that - we chilled in the shade and went bird watching instead… Man, am I kicking myself now!

The Source of the Nile

Bird watching is better than white-water (Murchison Falls)

From Jinja we went to Murchison Falls National Park, lower down on the White Nile. The park is a vibrant mix of forest, bush and grassland. Of course we visited the falls and then we spent a day chimpanzee tracking in the Budongo forest.

Murchison Falls

It was magical to experience these creatures in their own environment. We were amazed how they can disappear – we smelled them first when they were only 5m from us and all around us. Our guide, Cypriano, was very knowledgeable and has been working with this particular group of 87 individuals for the last seventeen years. We learned that they only pick fruit from the trees as it becomes ripe (whereas baboons pick everything and throw the unripe fruit down) and can feed off the same few trees for a few weeks. They also hunt monkeys and small antelope closing in on them from all sides. They also strip grass and use it to fish termites out of their nests; and they retreat to the wardens’ village when there is a lion/leopard threatening them.

Deep Thought

The good news is that this particular forest habitat and its chimp population have been expanding over the last few years.

Chimp Tracking in Budongo Forest