Ibo Island and the Quirimbas National Park

The Quirimbas Archipelago lies some 80km North of Pemba. We had heard that Ibo Island was worth a visit. Some people encouraged us to fly there, but we decided to give the road a try. We found it to be very practicable when dry, although had it have rained we probably wouldn’t have gone through.

A bus stop (“paragem”) on the road to Quissinga

“Take the road to Tanganyanga, and carry on across the salt pan straight to the baobab on the beach,” we were told. “There you will find a barraca where your car will be safe. Someone will be able to help you hire a dhow to get across to the island.”
It was as we had been told…

The baobab on the beach

…and we hired a motor boat to go across to the island. Only to find out later that there is a ferry, called a chiapa, that would have cost us a tenth of the price! So we learn.

Like Ilha de Mocambique, Ibo used to be an important trading post in the Indian Ocean, and a main governing base for Mozambique in colonial time. The Indians, Chinese, Arabs and Portuguese established themselves on the island over the centuries. They traded cashew nuts, gold, ivory and slaves from the mainland. When the Portuguese left, the buildings were left to themselves.

Ibo’s streets

Ibo aroused our interest and curiosity about Mozambique’s past and present more than any other place we had visited so far. A local teenager, Abu, became our guide and told us a bit about his homeland and his people.

Abu Making lime to restore the Fortaleza

Cowries on the governor’s house

It is a stunning area. The archipelago is virtually unspoilt, and it must be a pleasure to sail through the area. The Quirimbas National Park has been set up to protect and manage its biodiversity and history.

The mainland part of the park is also beautiful. The next day we drove east from Quissinga through the park. We filled our water tank at one of the villages, and camped in the bush.

Villagers Child Bush bath

Londo (last day in Pemba)

We spent a few days in Pemba, relaxing at Brenda and Rudy’s Pemba Dive + Bush Camp.
We enjoyed its stunning private beach on the bay…

Pemba Dive + Bush Camp private beach

…and the mud bath in the mangrove!

Mud bath

It is a favourite hangout for the local expats. And we met interesting characters. Also, it wasn’t long before we met Guy and Kerryn, who we found out to be friends of friends. They invited us to spend a day with them on Franz’s dhow. We sailed to Londo across the bay and spent the day fishing, snorkelling and exploring.

Franz’s dhow On Franz’s dhow Captao Pemba Bay